5 principles and 5 misunderstandings of apple tree pruning in summer

5 principles for pruning apple trees in summer

Summer pruning is also called growing season pruning. It is one of the important parts of the apple tree's annual pruning. Its main pruning methods include ring cutting, ring peeling, twisting, topping, pulling branches, sparse branches, and autumn hats. Summer pruning must grasp the following five principles:

1. The target should be clear. The main objects of summer pruning are laissez-faire growing trees, young and prosperous trees, age-appropriate fruitless trees, and trees that are difficult to bear flowers and weak trees are generally not pruned in summer.

Second, the time should be appropriate. Generally, ring cutting and ring peeling are best from late May to early June. Topping and twisting are appropriate from late May to early July. Pulling branches and sparse branches are better during the period from Liqiu to Bailu. It is better to cut and wear the hat in the first half of August.

Third, the amount of pruning should be appropriate. In summer, the amount of pruning should be lighter, so as not to stimulate the growth or not to weaken the tree.

Fourth, to promote flower bud differentiation and improve fruit quality as the ultimate goal. Note that after cutting, the branches are dense and moderate, and the arrangement is even and reasonable. The light can be transmitted to the inner chamber and the lower layer to the extent that it does not cover the top and does not cover the outside.

Fifth, we must adapt to the local conditions. According to tree age, tree vigor, variety characteristics, natural conditions, pruning purpose, etc., determine the appropriate pruning method and pruning degree.

5 mistakes in pruning apple trees in summer

Myth 1: There is no continuity in light topping and topping. When the length of the branches on the back is 15-20 cm, remove the upper branches at 5-7 leaves from the base, observe once every week to see if it has stopped growing, and wipe off the buds below the topping part in time to avoid multiple heads branch.

Misunderstanding 2: The object of ring cutting (stripping) is not clear. The object of circumcision (peeling) should be the arbor tree with too strong growth potential and unsustainable fruit. The tree age is 5 to 15 years and there is no rot in the surrounding orchards.

Misunderstanding 3: Twisting piece. Where there is a lot of space on the back, when the new shoot grows to 35 cm, twist the tip in the semi-lignified part (5-8 cm down from the top of the center), so that you can make full use of the advantages of the back to produce flowers, and Does not affect light. The twisting of the same main branch should not be too much. 3 to 5 should be twisted according to the size of the tree, and the rest should be removed. After twisting, it is easy to pull out new erect branches at the base.

Misunderstanding four: Improper handling of Guotai secondary tip. For the varieties with severe flowering and fruit dropping, 6~7 leaves can be left for light topping when the length of the fruit tip is 20~25 cm. For the large fruit varieties such as Red Fuji, it is necessary to protect and make good use of the fruit tip.

Myth 5: Scissors and saws are not disinfected. After sawing out the rot or dry rot, the pruning tools should be fired and sterilized immediately; the cutting mouth should also be processed in time, and the cutting mouth can be coated with oil mixed with 1/15 methyl thiophanate pure powder or sulfur powder.

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